Free Rapunzel Amigurumi Pattern

This Rapunzel Amigurumi pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka @chiacrafts, who hopes you enjoy it very much!

Abbreviations

These are standard U.S. abbreviations + something I've invented to make reading easier.

• R = Round (continuous or joined)
• Row = Row
• MR = Magic Ring
• st = Stitch
• sk = Skip
• sc = Single crochet
• inc = Increase in sc (invisible sc increase, i.e., 1st sc in FL, 2nd through the entire st when working in rounds, [2 sc] through the entire st when working in rows)
• dec = Decrease in sc (invisible sc decrease when working in rounds, sc2tog when working in rows)
• dc = Double crochet
• hdc = Half double crochet
• ch = Chain
• sl st = Slip stitch
• tr = Treble crochet
• BLO = Back loop only (corresponds to the inner loop when working in rounds)
• FLO = Front loop only (corresponds to the outer loop when working in rounds)
• [ ] = Means stitches should be worked in the same loop or stitch
• CYO = Cut yarn and pull through the stitch
• IJ = Invisible join
• FO = Fasten off (CYO + IJ)
• stsc = Standing sc
• tch = Turning chain
• rc = Rising chain

Materials

• 2.0 mm hook
• Tapestry needle
• 8 mm black safety eyes
• Stuffing (polyester fiberfill or other)
• Same-weight yarn in the following colors:
  • Peach (skin)
  • Mustard (hair)
  • Pink (dress)
  • Antique pink (dress)
  • Violet (dress)
  • White (dress)
  • Gray (pan)
• Tiny scraps of black for eye embroidery

Note about the eyes

The correct size of safety eyes depends on the doll's dimensions! Do not buy 8 mm eyes if you're unsure whether your doll's dimensions are similar to mine. My advice is to buy a box with many different sizes and use the one that best fits your doll. Approximately, safety eyes should be 2.5 stitches wide.

Note about the yarn

I used YarnArt Jeans, which is a yarn made for working with a 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes in one size, so you won’t go wrong). As usual when working amigurumi, I used a hook one size smaller than recommended to achieve a tighter fabric, avoiding holes through which stuffing could peek or fall out.

You'll get a good result with this pattern as long as you stick to a yarn brand/weight, work tightly with a hook one size smaller than recommended, and scale the other hooks accordingly.

Either way, my advice is to avoid choosing a much thicker yarn than recommended to prevent a sloppy result—maximum one size larger!

Dimensions

Using the indicated yarn and hook (and, most importantly, working tightly!!!), the finished amigurumi will be about 13x5 cm.

Legs

Hook: 2.0 mm
Work tightly
Yarn: Peach

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2–R13: 6 sc (6)

Make 2 legs.

The legs do not need stuffing!

CYO after completing the first leg. Leave a long tail in case some sewing is needed.
Do not cut the yarn after making the second leg; from there, you’ll continue working to join the legs.
Make 2.

Body

Hook: 2.0 mm
Work tightly
Yarn: Start from the second leg made.
Change color to antique pink.

Join the legs:
R14: 3 sc in the second leg, ch 2, 6 sc in the first leg, 2 sc in the back of the chain, 3 sc in the second leg (16)

(Start working on the first leg from the first stitch of R13!)

R15: 16 sc (16)

Now we’re expanding to create the boot!

R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)
R17: 18 sc (18)
R18: 18 sc BLO (18)
It’s important to work R18 in BLO—the skirt will be worked in the remaining FL!
R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)
Boot done 🙂

R20: 16 sc (16)
R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)
R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)
R23: 2 sc, 1 sc changing to peach, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec (10) (the color change should fall on the back)

Wait before stuffing the body.

R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)

Pause to work a row of white surface slip stitches between R22 and R23, above the color change.

Work these sl sts before stuffing up to that point! Use a 2.0 mm hook but work very loosely.

Proceed this way along the color change line, finishing with an IJ:

You can also add some embroidery:

Then, stuff the body.
Continue working in peach:
R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Now 2 rounds for the neck.
R26–R27: 6 sc (6)
Neck done, now we start the head.
R28: 6 inc (12)
R29: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
R30: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
R31: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (36)
This is how your work should look so far: it should be a flat disk.

In R32, we’ll work some increases in the front and single crochets in the back. Mark 20 sc on the back of the doll. On the back, you’ll work 20 sc, from one stitch marker to the other. On the front, you’ll work increases spaced 4 sc apart. You may need to adjust how you distribute these increases before and after the end of the round depending on where you are at the end of R31.

R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (40)

Here’s an example of a possible adaptation:
R32: 1 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 20 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 4 sc, 1 inc (40)
R33–R34: 40 sc (40)
Your work should look like the next image. Mark two stitches 7 stitches apart (first marker on the 1st, second on the 7th). This distance will correspond to the eye spacing.

Work sc until just before the first stitch marker, then 1 dec, then 7 sc, then 1 dec, then finish the round with sc. In my case, the pattern ended up being:
R35: 3 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc (38)
R36–R41: 38 sc (38)
R42: (17 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (36)
Pause and place the safety eyes between R36 and R37 (count 6 rounds from the top—it will be easier) with 7 sc apart:

TIP: When stuffing the head, the eyes may tilt outward. A good trick to straighten and "bleed" them is to use peach-colored threads running inside the head! I advise placing them now, before inserting the eyes.

Cut two long threads and pass them as in the next image, at a distance of 1 sc from the hole where you’ll place the eye (always from the inside!).

Then proceed to place the eyes and embroider them (you can find a generic tutorial on how to embroider eyes on my Instagram profile).

The peach threads will be used to "bleed" the eyes. For now, pull them out from the back of the doll.

Stuff under the bleeding threads.

First, I pull out the threads and stuff the lower part of the head, then I reinsert the threads (from the back of the doll),

and stuff the rest while closing the head.
The top of the head should be well-stuffed—don’t neglect the last rounds.
The lower part of the head is a bit lighter than the top, as it’s stuffed as shown while, as I close the top, I keep pushing the stuffing with my scissors until the surface is well stretched (proper stuffing can increase the height of your doll’s forehead by up to 1 cm!).

Stuff while closing the head! It should be well-stuffed—don’t neglect the last rounds.
R45: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
R46: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
R47: 6 dec (6)
CYO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the FL of the last round and pull tight. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the doll’s body.

Finally, pull the peach threads to define the eyes, secure them with a knot behind the head, and hide the ends inside the head (there’s a video on my Instagram profile).
Here’s the result so far!

Skirt

Hook: 2.0 mm
Work loosely
Yarn: Start with violet; you’ll also need white and a bit of pink.
Start working on one of the FL left in R17, at the back of the doll. Hold the body upside down and work clockwise.

R1: 1 sc, 17 sc (18)
R2: (1 sc, inc) x 9 (27)
R3–R6: 27 sc (27)
R7: (8 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (30)
R8–R11: 30 sc (30)
R12: Work in FLO: 30 sc (30)
R13: 30 sl st (30)

Using white yarn and a 2.0 mm hook, work a round parallel to R12, working in the remaining BL.
R12//: stsc, (ch 3, sc in next BL) x 30

Then I added two simple pink lines for dress decoration:

Arms

Hook: 2.0 mm
Work tightly
Yarn: Start with peach; you’ll also need pink and antique pink.
R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
R2–R3: 5 sc (5)
Change to pink:
R4: 5 sc (5)
R5: 5 sc BLO (5)
R6–R9: 5 sc (5)
Change to antique pink:
R10: 5 sc BLO (5)
R11: 1 sc, 1 popst, 1 sc, CYO (5)

The popcorn stitch (popst) is made with 4 incomplete sc, then YO and pull through all 5 loops on your hook. Work extremely loosely and stretch the stitch once completed.
You’ve just created a puffy shoulder. The arms don’t need stuffing. Make 2.

Using white yarn, work in the remaining FL: (ch 2, 1 sl st) x 5

Then sew or glue them to the body.

Hair:

Hook: 2.0 mm
Work loosely
Yarn: Mustard
Work in rows (don’t forget the turning chain!):
Row 1: Ch 41 (40)
Row 2: 40 hdc (40)

The piece you just made should be about as long as the doll. Adjust your tension or make it longer if needed!

Row 2–Row 13: Work in BLO: 40 hdc (40)
This piece should be long enough to cover the back of the head from side to side (you’ll add another row of single crochet later).
If needed, add more rows, but keep the number odd.

Then, turn the base and work 13 sc toward the end of Row 1.

From here, work: ch 41, working into this chain: 20 hdc, 20 sc

Then work 40 sc along the side until you reach near the starting tail.

Without cutting the yarn, work the next part in rows (don’t forget the turning chain!):
Row 1: Ch 21 (20)
Row 2: 20 sc (20)
Row 3: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (15)
Row 4: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (12)
Row 5: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (9)
Row 6: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (6)
Row 7: 3 dec (3), no tch
Row 8: 1 sl st, 1 dec (1), CYO

This creates this crescent-shaped piece:

Work slip stitches until you reach the beginning or Row 1 of this piece.

This is how the hair looks:

Using a tapestry needle, pass through 13 small loops at the top (1 per row worked).

Pass the needle all the way through, keeping a small loop at the start.

Then pass the tapestry needle inside this loop to close the wig and pull tight.

Here’s the final result:

Glue or sew it onto the head.

Congratulations, your Rapunzel is complete!

Don’t forget to send me a photo and tag me / credit me / use my hashtag when posting online.

If you’d like to explore more articles like Free Rapunzel Amigurumi Pattern, feel free to visit the Amigurumis section.